Sunday – Monday, 8-9 April 2018
Two days of great contrast — wild and violent versus peaceful and relaxing. Well, the wild and wooly day starts out peaceful, too. I jog along Monterey’s municipal beach, watch curlews run along the edge of the spent surf and go for a walk in El Estero Park. Then the call comes that we are leaving port as soon as I can make it back to the boat.
Again we see a couple of humpback whales in the bay, tail out of the water as they disappear beneath the sea’s surface. We carry on westward to clear Point Pinos before setting sail in a strong breeze. But as we raise the main, its clew (back corner of the sail) rips off and the sail comes loose. Bo and I have to take care not to get smacked by the violently flapping tail end. Fortunately, we are able to bring the situation under control by reefing (shortening) the main sail.
The wind blows from the northwest. All seems perfect for a swift passage south. However, the swells are building to 25 and 30 feet and begin to hit the yacht amidship. Two of the crew are getting seasick, and after a few hours of rocking and rolling the captain decides to turn back to Monterey, as there is no other safe harbour nearby. Off the Bay of Carmel we see the waves throwing up foam and spray, crashing against the rocks. We keep well clear by tacking westward, but are now heading straight into the swell. The waves hit the yacht directly from the front, spraying the entire deck and coach house. Dan says, “This is as bad as a roller coaster ride.” I think it’s worse.
When we are certain that Point Pinos can be safely rounded, we set course for Monterey Bay and arrive back in the safety of the harbour in the dark. As the few spaces suitable for a 24-foot wide yacht are now taken, the harbour master assigns us a place in the commercial sections where coast guard and fishing boats are docked. It is next to the breakwater where dozens of harbour seals make a great commotion as they bellow continuously, each competing for a place on a rock or piling. But spent and relieved we all sleeps well this night.
I am up early, prepare porridge and fruit salad for the captain and crew, then hose down the boat with fresh water before the others rise from their slumber. There is other damage to the boat beside the ripped main sail — a couple of broken plexiglass windows in the canvas dodger surrounding the cockpit will have to be repaired at a local shop. But listening to the stormy weather forecast nobody on board is in a hurry to relive yesterday’s experience for a few days.
After getting my day pack ready I walk to the bus stop for a trip across the Monterey peninsula to Carmel. This pretty seaside town boasts nearly 60 art galleries, a 18th century basilica and the famous Pebble Beach Golf Links.
I’ve got my priorities — first a couple of galleries, chatting with the staff, getting tips about the town along the way, then heading down Ocean Boulevard to take in the vista of the long crescent of sandy beach. Yesterday I was out there in the wind and weather, today the breeze from the sea seems rather benign when one has terra firma under one’s feet.
At the north end of the bay I can see cliffs covered in green. Could this be the famous golf course? I ask a couple; yes indeed. Walking along a beach boardwalk I stop an elderly woman. Is there a good spot to take a photo of the golf course? She takes me along a foot path that turns out to be her secret trail into the place. Ignorant of proper golf etiquette I walk along a paved road that cuts right through a fairway just when a group of men are teeing off. Oh, well, it’s merely a bunch of guys trying to hit a little ball.
Clear on the opposite side of town is the Carmel Mission, a Catholic basilica, monastery and school. I am spared the usual entry fee as it is near closing time, so I quickly pass through the maze-like gift shop that serves as the entrance to the mission courtyards, garden, and church. I like the Spanish colonial architecture of the expansive complex of buildings yet can’t help but find religious artifacts and sculptures a bit oppressive. Maybe I’ve seen just too many churches and cathedrals during my Europe travels?
Photos: 1.) Monterey harbour; 2.) rocks carved by the sea west of Monterey; 3.) & 4.) typical Carmel-by-the-Sea storefront and alley; 5.) Pebble Beach Golf Links; 6.) Carmel Mission basilica.
