An early start

Surely most of us can attest to the truth of Robert Burns’ quote, “The best-laid schemes o’ mice an’ men gang aft agley” (go oft astray).

Since joining the sailing yacht Amante in early February I have had my share of health mishaps, including a couple of broken molars, that sent me back home to Victoria for surgery. But hopefully all this is behind me now. Captain Dan and crew, Bo, arrive in Victoria and spend a few days enjoying the sights (and pubs) until my last checkup gives me the all clear.

Thursday, 8 March 2018

We are finally on our way, motoring out of Victoria harbour before the city is fully awake. Once in the Strait of Juan de Fuca, a fresh northerly wind allows us to set sail and we head west toward the Pacific Ocean at a respectable 7-8 knots, the rocky shoreline of Vancouver Island on our right and Washington’s Olympic Peninsula to the left.

As the day progresses, the cloud cover increases and visibility becomes worse with both shorelines disappearing into the mist. Fortunately, we have a good electronic chart plotter to help us stay on course and clear of cargo ships. However, soon the wind all but dies and we have to turn on the engine again.

As we round Cape Flattery the Pacific swells make us feel like a surfer paddling against the breakers. The wind, too, has turned against us, coming from the south, and it is beginning to rain. It’s a losing battle. All we are doing is buck the waves and waste fuel without making much progress. Reluctantly, we decide to turn back to find shelter in Neah Bay. After another hour and a half of motor-sailing — this last stretch with the wind — we anchor in the relatively calm bay.  Having covered 77 nautical miles during a 12-hour day we indulge in a homemade taco dinner, thinking of warmer days and fairer winds ahead.


Photo: Sunrise in Neah Bay, Washington State.

by

I learned to sail more than half a century ago on a 100' wooden ketch with canvas sails and natural fibre halyards, no winch in sight. As a young lad I crossed the Atlantic thrice, alas each time as a passenger on a ship. I realize that doesn't prove any boating experience except that I don't get seasick. Later I owned a pocket sloop in which I got to know much of the Salish Sea on Canada's west coast for two decades. The largest boat I've skippered -- in the protected waters of San Francisco Bay -- was a 45-foot catamaran. Now I'm a small tour boat and water taxi captain in Victoria's (British Columbia) inner harbour. I'm off work mid-October to mid-February but sometimes I don't start my job until late spring if I happen to be travelling and like the place I'm visiting more than the prospect of returning home before the weather turns warm.